Hey friends! My new tutorial just hit YouTube and it’s all about applying a good base makeup (and when I say base I mean primer, foundation, concealer, contouring, highlighting and blush). Especially contouring and highlighting is something I know many of you struggle with and that’s a shame because I’d say it’s the part of makeup that really allows you to give yourself a complete facelift and just bring your best features out. Especially for us plus size ladies like me it can be a real life-saver when you want to get rid of the double chin in an instant or just have that little more definition on your face.
The requests for help I get most often from my clients is ‘please teach me how to do contouring and highlighting’. So here I am, to your rescue (spoiler alert, if you don’t feel like reading then head straight to the video at the end of this post. However, I am giving you a few more details here in this blog that I left out in the video ;))
MOISTURISER & PRIMER
It’s very important to be kind to your skin and take good care of it and one of the most important things in that respect is moisturising your face regularly and especially before applying makeup. This will not only make your makeup last longer, it will also avoid your makeup from becoming patchy (because of dry skin) and finally it will be easier to remover makeup from a moisturised skin than a dry skin at the end of the day. I used The Body Shop Seaweed Oil Control Lotion SPF 15 which is a great choice not only to use before makeup but as a daily face cream because is has a SPF 15 (we need that in India!!) but it doesn’t oxidise like many other sun screens so it’s best of both worlds.
My primer is the Colorbar Perfect Match Primer. You use a primer basically for 2 reasons. Firstly, you create an extra layer of protection for your skin and prevent makeup from being absorbed by the skin. You know that feeling at the end of the day when you look in the mirror and you’re like ‘where did my makeup go??’ You can prevent that by using a primer. Secondly, it fills up your pores and blurs your blemishes. The older we get the bigger our pores, it’s just how nature works. Of course exfoliating regularly, taking care of your skin and cleansing it helps prevents this from happening too fast, but still, sometimes you just want your pores to be invisible for your makeup to be flawless, enter primer. I used a flat brush such as this one: NYX Professional Makeup Pro Brush Flat Foundation to apply it.
FOUNDATION & CONCEALER
My go to is almost always a full coverage foundation, in this tutorial I used the Milani Conceal + Perfect 2-In-1 Foundation + Concealer – 05 Warm Beige with the sameNYX Professional Makeup Pro Brush Flat Foundation. The other option is to go with a sheer foundation. The difference is that in a sheer foundation your natural skin is still seen through it and it creates a no-makeup kind of look but it just evens out the skin. A sheer foundation can be great for a day time look or light everyday makeup. But if you want your highlighting and contouring to stand out, full coverage is the way to go.
Now talking about concealer, you can apply it first, for example when you have parts of your face that really need covering such as big dark circles or pimples. Otherwise, I usually do it after my foundation so you can directly see the end result and apply as much as needed. Though my foundation is a 2-in-1. I still used a L.A. Girl Pro Conceal HD under my eyes, around my nose and the corners of my lips for the finishing touches, applied with a PAC Fluffy Blending Brush. To set the base makeup I used Bharat & Dorris Loose Powder – No.7 applied with a damp Beauty Blender. A beauty blender is great because it blends the makeup really well, much better than a brush, it also absorbs oil from the skin and mattifies it.
CONTOURING & HIGHLIGHTING
The trick of contouring is that it makes it look like there are natural shadows on your face that would be there if your face had the absolute perfect shape. But since all our faces are a bit wider or rounder or chubbier or flatter or whatever (you get the point) than we’d like, we have to create those shadows ourselves, it’s basically and optical illusion. Now the key word is: BLEND!! Blend, blend, blend and when you think you’re done, blend some more. Blending is what makes it look natural, you don’t want a stranger to come up to you saying ‘what is that orange stripe on your face??’
The areas you want to contour are your jawline and the area below it, your temples and upper fore head, just below your cheek bones, your nose and your cupids bow (=upper lip). Now there’s a lot of products on the market, but in this tutorial I used a cream based contouring product (L.A. Girl Pro Contour Cream). I applied and blended the product with an oval makeup blending brush like this one: Nykaa BlendMaster Contour Oval Brush for the bigger areas, a PAC Fluffy Blending Brush for the smaller areas such as my nose and a Flat Vega Eye Shadow Brush (EV-02) for the really precise contouring like my cupids bow. Remember, always blend and apply product in a downward motion. I finished my contouring with a contouring powder by Maybelline found it the Maybelline New York Face Studio Master Contour Palette, applied with a Large Angled Contour Brush. The reason I used both a cream based product and a powder is to make set it and make it last longer
For Highlighting I used a M.A.C Studio Fix Fluid series foundation. Highlighting is basically filling in all the parts that are not contoured, super easy. Or, you can refer to my super charming picture above to give you an idea of what it would look like. Then, I did the same as with my foundation and concealer, I used Bharat & Dorris Loose Powder – No.7 to set the makeup, applied with a damp Beauty Blender.
The final touch of highlighting is again using a powder, like this one Mineralize Skinfinish – Lightscapade over the cream based product to give a little extra effect and a natural glow on the higher areas of your face like your upper cheekbone, nose, above your eyebrows and upper lip. I used a London Pride Cosmetics HD Stippling Brush to apply it lightly.
BLUSH & LIPS
From the same Maybelline New York Face Studio Master Contour Palette I applied a light blush to create a natural look on my cheeks with my London Pride Cosmetics HD Stippling Brush.
Finally, though I know this is a base makeup tutorial, I couldn’t help but complete the look with a nude lip color. Using the NYX Professional Makeup Slim Lip Pencil – Pale Pink and the M.A.C Satin Lipstick in the shade ‘spirit’.
And when you’re done, this is what the final result should look like:
You can watch the whole tutorial for this look in my YouTube video (see below), please show me some love by liking and subscribing and I’d love to hear your comments (here or on YouTube). Also, if you need more help to get this right, do let me know, it’s what I love to do!